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Tbilisi eSIM

Tbilisi: the beautiful rebel of wooden balconies

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The guide

Tbilisi is best explored on foot. The old town (Dzveli Tbilisi) lines the Kura river with carved wooden-balcony houses, Armenian churches and the Juma Mosque. Climb to Narikala Fortress, crowned by the Kartlis Deda (Mother Georgia) statue, then descend to the sulphur baths of Abanotubani and the Leghvtakhevi canyon waterfall. Chardin Street and Meidan Square are packed with cafés and restaurants. For the creative scene, head to Fabrika, a Soviet sewing factory turned hostel and cultural hub in Marjanishvili, on the left bank. Rustaveli Avenue gathers theatres, the national museum and the opera. The Sololaki district charms with Art Nouveau entrances and stained glass. Nights run late: wine cellars, neighbourhood bars and underground clubs.

« And Then We Danced » (2019), directed by Levan Akin, was shot in the streets of the old town and inside the Georgian National Ballet in Tbilisi. The film, about a young dancer in the national ensemble, sparked protests on its Georgian release. Its steep alleys and inner courtyards of the Avlabari district are instantly recognisable.

The name « Tbilisi » comes from the Georgian word « tbili » (warm): legend says King Vakhtang Gorgasali founded the city in the 5th century after a wounded falcon fell into a hot sulphur spring. Those same springs still feed the brick-domed Abanotubani baths in the very centre.

Walk up to Betlemi Street, above the baths, for hidden courtyards and views the tour buses miss. Activate a data eSIM at the airport to track the funicular and « marshrutka » minibuses without relying on patchy wifi.

Must-see

Abanotubani Baths
The brick-domed sulphur bath quarter below the fortress. Rent a private room for a hot soak and a « kisa » scrub. Pushkin bathed here and praised the experience in the 19th century.
Narikala Fortress
A 4th-century citadel perched above the old town, reached by cable car from Rike Park. Its ramparts offer the finest panorama over the rooftops, the Kura river and Sameba Cathedral.
Fabrika
A former Soviet sewing factory turned cultural complex in Marjanishvili: hostel, courtyard full of cafés, designer studios and street art. The gathering point for the left bank's young, creative crowd.
Bridge of Peace
A contemporary glass-and-steel pedestrian bridge over the Kura, designed by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi and opened in 2010. Lit up at night, it links the old town to Rike Park.

Good to know

The best seasons are spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October); summer is hot and July-August stifling. The metro (two lines) is fast and cheap: get a MetroMoney card, also valid on buses. Bolt taxis are inexpensive and everywhere. Tip: negotiate or skip non-app taxis near tourist sites. 4G coverage is very good citywide and 5G is rolling out; public wifi is unreliable outside cafés, so a data eSIM is handy for maps and transit apps.

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