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Florence: the Renaissance in the open air

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The guide

Florence (Firenze) is compact and made for walking, which is one of its great pleasures. The historic core, centred on the Duomo with Brunelleschi's dome, packs in most of the city's Renaissance masterpieces. Piazza della Signoria and the Uffizi Gallery form the artistic heart, while the Ponte Vecchio spans the Arno with its row of goldsmiths' shops. Across the river, the Oltrarno district (San Niccolò, Santo Spirito) keeps a more artisanal, lived-in feel, full of workshops, trattorias and wine bars. To catch your breath, climb up to Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset or wander the Boboli Gardens. Florence rewards a slow pace, weaving between museums, markets and strolls through narrow cobbled lanes.

In 1985, James Ivory had Piazza della Signoria cleared to shoot “A Room with a View” with Helena Bonham Carter.

In 1817, Stendhal left the Santa Croce basilica dizzy before its frescoes, giving the overwhelmed-by-art faint its name.

On Via dei Neri, All'Antico Vinaio (going since the 60s) serves giant schiacciata sandwiches elbow-to-elbow with locals.

Must-see

Uffizi Gallery
One of the world's foremost museums of Italian painting, home to Botticelli's Birth of Venus alongside works by Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael and Caravaggio. Book a timed entry slot to avoid the notoriously long queues.
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo)
Brunelleschi's dome towers over the city. You can climb its 463 steps to the top for a 360-degree view, though the ascent must be booked in advance and is not suitable for everyone.
Accademia Gallery
Home to Michelangelo's original David, carved from a single block of marble between 1501 and 1504. The figure, over five metres tall, stands at the end of a gallery lined with the unfinished Prisoners.
Piazzale Michelangelo
This terrace on the south bank offers the finest panoramic view of Florence, with the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio below. Sunset here is a local ritual, complete with a bronze copy of the David.

Good to know

Spring (April-June) and early autumn (September-October) are the best seasons: mild temperatures and beautiful light. Summer is very hot and crowded. Florence is best explored almost entirely on foot, as the centre is compact and largely pedestrianised; the tram mainly serves the airport and outskirts. Tip: book your Uffizi and Accademia tickets online well in advance. As for connectivity, 4G/5G mobile coverage is excellent across the city, and many cafes, museums and hotels offer free wifi, handy for downloading maps and tickets.

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