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Dubrovnik: the walled pearl of the Adriatic

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The guide

Everything begins inside the walls, in the UNESCO-listed Old Town. The Stradun, a long avenue of polished limestone, links the Pile and Ploče gates and concentrates cafés, churches and the Rector's Palace. The great pleasure is the walk along the city walls (nearly 2 km), with sweeping views over the red-tiled roofs and the Adriatic. Take the Mount Srđ cable car at sunset for the full panorama, then come back down to wander the steep eastern lanes. To escape the crowds, hop on the short boat ride to the wooded island of Lokrum, or head for the beaches of Banje and Lapad. The atmosphere is Mediterranean, elegant and unmistakably turned toward the sea.

Dubrovnik was the main backdrop for King's Landing in HBO's Game of Thrones (from 2011). Fort Lovrijenac, perched on its 37-metre cliff west of the Old Town, doubled as the Red Keep for Joffrey's court scenes and the long exchanges between Cersei and Littlefinger. Cersei's infamous Walk of Shame was filmed on the baroque steps of the Jesuit Staircase.

The motto Libertas (liberty), carved across the city, recalls that Dubrovnik, then the Republic of Ragusa, abolished slavery as early as 1416, well ahead of most European nations. Proud of its merchant independence, the city preferred to buy peace through diplomacy and tribute rather than wage war.

For a drink almost at sea level, seek out the Buža Bar, a hidden spot reached through a simple hole in the seaward wall, marked by a Cold Drinks sign. Activate your eSIM before exploring the lanes: smooth mobile data lets you follow a filming-locations map without hunting for the scarce wifi inside the Old Town.

Must-see

Dubrovnik City Walls
The medieval rampart circuit loops the entire Old Town over nearly two kilometres. Allow two hours to enjoy the views over red roofs, forts and the sea; set off early to dodge both heat and crowds.
Fort Lovrijenac
A fortress rising on a 37-metre cliff just west of the Old Town, nicknamed Dubrovnik's Gibraltar. Used as the Red Keep in Game of Thrones, it offers a spectacular view of the walls and hosts open-air plays during the summer festival.
Mount Srđ Cable Car
In a few minutes the cable car reaches the summit of Srđ at 405 metres, for the finest panorama over the walled Old Town and the Elaphiti islands. At the top, a Napoleonic fort houses a museum on the war of independence.
Lokrum Island
A wooded nature reserve about ten minutes by boat from the old port. It has a Benedictine monastery, a botanical garden, free-roaming peacocks and a small salt lake nicknamed the Dead Sea, ideal for a swim.

Good to know

The best time is May to June and September to October: the climate is mild and cruise ships less overwhelming than at peak summer. The Old Town is entirely walkable, its paved lanes closed to cars; to reach Lapad or the airport, public buses are efficient and cheap. Tip: buy the Dubrovnik Card, which bundles the walls, museums and transport. Mobile 4G/5G coverage is excellent across the city and along the coast, and most cafés offer wifi, but a data eSIM is more reliable for navigating the lanes and boat connections.

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