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Bali: sacred rice fields, blessed waters

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The guide

More than a city, Bali is an island of strikingly contrasting moods. In the south, Seminyak is lined with stylish boutiques, beach clubs and trendy restaurants, while neighbouring Canggu, on the southwest coast, blends surf spots, brunch cafés and digital nomads. Inland, Ubud is the island's cultural and artistic heart, ringed by terraced rice paddies and jungle. Denpasar, the capital, is mostly an administrative and commercial hub. Highlights include swimming and surfing at Echo Beach or Batu Bolong, watching sea-temple sunsets, walking through Ubud's rice terraces, and sampling local dishes like nasi goreng. The Uluwatu peninsula in the far south adds dramatic clifftop temples and sweeping views over the Indian Ocean.

In Ubud, “Eat, Pray, Love” (2010) with Julia Roberts shot the bicycle ride through the Tegallalang rice terraces.

Subak, the rice-field irrigation network run by water temples, has worked since the 9th century and has been UNESCO-listed since 2012.

For Bali before the crowds, head to Sidemen, a quiet valley below Mount Agung that many describe as the Ubud of thirty years ago.

Must-see

Uluwatu Temple (Pura Luhur Uluwatu)
A Hindu temple perched on a cliff above the Indian Ocean at the tip of the southern peninsula. Stay for the late-afternoon Kecak fire dance, which tells the story of Rama and Sita, and the unforgettable sunset views over the sea.
Tegallalang Rice Terraces
Near Ubud, these UNESCO-listed terraces cascade down a lush green hillside. March, April, September and October bring the greenest landscapes, just before the rice is harvested. A classic Ubud day-tour stop.
Tanah Lot
Meaning land in the sea, this temple sits on a rock about 300 metres off the coast and is Bali's most photographed Hindu shrine. Visit early morning or late afternoon to dodge the crowds and catch the best light.
Sacred Monkey Forest
In the centre of Ubud, this forested sanctuary is home to more than 700 long-tailed macaques, three Hindu temples and hundreds of plant species. A shaded walk leads past ancient trees, streams and carved stone statues.

Good to know

Bali can be visited year-round, but the dry season from April to October is the most pleasant, with clear skies and calm seas. For getting around, scooters rule for short hops; for longer trips, hire a car with driver or use a ride-hailing app, as public transport is almost non-existent. One tip: cover your shoulders and knees to enter temples, where a sarong is often required. On connectivity, mobile coverage is strong across the tourist south (Seminyak, Canggu, Ubud), and wifi is widely available in cafés and accommodation, though speeds drop in the island's rural and mountainous interior.

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