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Zagreb eSIM

Zagreb: the Habsburg capital with a tender heart

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The guide

Zagreb is lived on two levels. The Lower Town (Donji Grad), inherited from the Habsburgs, lines up broad avenues, the parks of the Green Horseshoe, museums and the great Ban Jelačić Square. Above, the Upper Town (Gornji Grad), reached by the famous funicular, keeps the medieval feel of the Gradec and Kaptol districts, with St. Mark's Church and its colourful tiled roof and the twin-spired cathedral. Between the two, Dolac Market, the stomach of Zagreb, spreads its red umbrellas, while Tkalčićeva street, a former stream bed, gathers cafés and terraces. The Grič Tunnel, an air-raid shelter turned pedestrian passage, adds an offbeat touch. A city of cafés and strolls, Zagreb cultivates an easy-going way of life, far from the bustle of the coast.

Orson Welles shot his adaptation of Kafka's The Trial (1962) in Zagreb, making use of the old town's Austro-Hungarian settings. The Croatian capital, long powered by the Jadran Film studios, still hosts international productions, including recent American series.

The Museum of Broken Relationships was born of a break-up: two Zagreb artists, Olinka Vištica and Dražen Grubišić, gathered keepsakes of ended loves after their own 2003 separation. Opened in 2010, it now holds thousands of anonymous donations from around the world and won a European award as the most original museum.

Take the Zagreb Funicular, just 66 metres long and billed as the shortest public-transport funicular in the world, to reach the Upper Town in one minute. A data eSIM helps you check market opening times and navigate the lanes of Gradec and Kaptol without losing your way.

Must-see

St. Mark's Church
Gem of the Upper Town, famous for its glazed-tile roof bearing the coats of arms of Croatia and Zagreb. Built in the Middle Ages and reworked in the 19th century, it stands on a quiet square ringed by official buildings.
Dolac Market
Nicknamed the stomach of Zagreb, this open-air market of red umbrellas is held daily behind Ban Jelačić Square. Farmers and growers sell fruit, vegetables, cheese and flowers in a thoroughly local atmosphere.
Zagreb Funicular
Running since 1890, it is the city's oldest form of public transport and, at 66 metres, one of the shortest funiculars in the world. The one-minute ride links the Lower Town to the Upper Town.
Museum of Broken Relationships
A unique collection of objects tied to break-ups, each with an anonymous story, founded by two artists after their own separation. By turns funny and moving, it has been awarded for its originality.

Good to know

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons; in winter the Advent market, repeatedly voted Europe's best, transforms the centre. The centre is walkable, complemented by a dense, cheap tram network (ZET) covering the whole city. Tip: combine the funicular and the Grič Tunnel to discover the Upper Town differently. 4G/5G coverage is very good across the capital and free wifi is widespread in cafés and public spaces; a data eSIM ensures a smooth connection for maps and transport tickets.

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