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Vienna: Imperial Waltzes and Velvet Cafés

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The guide

Vienna, the imperial capital of Austria, unfolds its grand avenues around the Ring, a circular boulevard laid out on the former ramparts. The first district, a UNESCO site, concentrates St Stephen's Cathedral, the palaces and the historic cafés. To the west, Schönbrunn Palace and its gardens evoke the Habsburgs, while the Belvedere, to the south-east, holds Klimt's The Kiss. The museum quarter, the MuseumsQuartier, mixes modern art and lively terraces. The Neubau and Leopoldstadt districts, younger in spirit, buzz with designer shops, markets and the Prater with its Ferris wheel. A city of music and gentle living, Vienna combines classical heritage, elegance and a food scene crowned by the Sachertorte and long pauses in the coffee house.

The iconic scene of “The Third Man” (1949) unfolds in a cabin of the Prater's giant Ferris wheel.

Schönbrunn Zoo, founded in 1752, is the oldest zoo in the world still in operation.

On cobbled Franziskanerplatz, Hermann Czech's Kleines Café stays gloriously off the tourist trail.

Must-see

Schönbrunn Palace
The former summer residence of the Habsburgs, this baroque palace of 1,441 rooms, a UNESCO site, spreads gardens leading up to the Gloriette. Empress Sisi stayed here and the young Mozart performed as a child in 1762.
St Stephen's Cathedral
At the heart of the old town, this Gothic sanctuary, the Stephansdom, has raised its 136-metre south tower since the 14th century, beneath a roof of multicoloured glazed tiles forming the imperial eagle.
Belvedere Palace
This double baroque palace built for Prince Eugene of Savoy holds the world's largest collection of Gustav Klimt, including The Kiss from 1908, set within formal French gardens.
Prater
This vast park, a former imperial hunting ground, combines green spaces and an amusement park. Its Ferris wheel, the Riesenrad, erected in 1897, rises to nearly 65 metres and offers panoramic views over the city.

Good to know

The ideal seasons are spring, from April to June, and autumn, in September and October, mild and less crowded. Summer can be hot, winter cold but magical with its Advent markets. The Wiener Linien network of metro, trams and buses is dense, punctual and easy to use. Tip: a 24, 48 or 72-hour pass simplifies travel, and the centre is wonderfully walkable. Mobile 4G and 5G coverage is excellent across the city, including the metro, and free wifi is widely available in cafés, museums and transport.

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