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Venice: La Serenissima on the water

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The guide

Venice is divided into six sestieri, and you move from one to the next across bridges and alleys. San Marco, the monumental heart, gathers St. Mark's Square, its Byzantine basilica and the Doge's Palace, along with most of the hotels and restaurants. Just to the west, calmer Dorsoduro holds the great museums and pretty spritz-side quays around Campo Santa Margherita. To the north, Cannaregio is one of the most authentic districts: home to many Venetians, around the old Jewish Ghetto and palaces such as the Ca' d'Oro. To grasp the city's soul, step away from the main routes, get lost in the calli and follow the side canals away from the crowds.

In “Casino Royale” (2006), James Bond sails the Grand Canal as a palazzo collapses into the water near the Rialto.

Venice rests on millions of petrified larch piles; the Salute church alone stands on over a million driven underwater.

Vino Vero, on Fondamenta della Misericordia in Cannaregio, was the first bacaro in Venice devoted to natural wines.

Must-see

St. Mark's Basilica
On St. Mark's Square, this Byzantine gem dazzles with its domes and some 8,000 m² of golden mosaics. A symbol of Venetian power, it is striking inside and out; booking ahead helps limit the wait.
Rialto Bridge
The most famous of the bridges spanning the Grand Canal, in the lively San Polo district. Lined with shops, it offers fine views over the canal; the nearby Rialto market is best in the morning for local atmosphere.
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
On the Grand Canal, between the Accademia Bridge and the Salute church, in the collector's former home. A survey of 20th-century art, with works by Picasso, Pollock and many others.
Old Jewish Ghetto (Cannaregio)
Established in 1516, it is the first recognised ghetto in Europe. Here you will find Renaissance synagogues, the Jewish Museum and a quiet neighbourhood life, far from the bustle of San Marco.

Good to know

Spring and autumn are the best seasons: soft light and thinner crowds than the sometimes stifling peak summer. Everything is done on foot, over bridges and through alleys; to cross, the vaporetti (water buses) serve the Grand Canal and the islands, and the traghetto offers a short, cheap crossing. One tip: leave the Rialto-San Marco axis quickly to discover a calmer Venice. As for the network, 4G/5G mobile coverage is generally good in town and wifi is common in hotels and cafés; the signal can nonetheless weaken in some narrow alleys or out on the water between islands.

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