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Thessaloniki eSIM

Thessaloniki: the great Byzantine lady of the North

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The guide

Greece's second city, Thessaloniki blends Byzantine, Ottoman and Sephardic heritage with a student, night-owl energy. Its heart beats on Aristotelous Square, a vast esplanade opening onto the Thermaic Gulf, extended by the long waterfront promenade (Nea Paralia) where locals stroll at sunset. The Upper Town (Ano Poli), spared by the great fire of 1917, unfolds Ottoman houses, cobbled lanes and ramparts with the finest view over the bay. Below, the Ladadika district, a former oil warehouse zone, packs in tavernas and bars. The city is best savoured through its cuisine, its listed early-Christian churches and its Roman agora. Walking, mezze and cafés set the rhythm of unhurried days.

The Hollywood thriller « The Bricklayer » (2023), starring Aaron Eckhart, was shot across the city, notably on Aristotelous Square, around the White Tower and in the alleys of the Upper Town (Ano Poli) along the Byzantine walls. The Ladadika district and Emporiou Square also appear on screen.

The city's emblem, the White Tower, was long nicknamed the « Tower of Blood » in Ottoman times, after a massacre of imprisoned Janissaries in 1826. It only turned « white » in 1890, when a convict whitewashed it in exchange for his freedom.

For real bougatsa, that creamy breakfast pastry, head to Bougatsa Bantis, a family institution in the Ano Poli district open since 1969. Keep your eSIM active: map apps will help you avoid getting lost in the steep maze of the Upper Town, where streets often change names.

Must-see

White Tower (Lefkos Pyrgos)
The city's symbol, a 16th-century Ottoman seafront tower, now a museum on Thessaloniki's history. Its terrace offers a circular view over the gulf and the city.
Rotunda of Galerius
An imposing 4th-century Roman circular monument, successively temple, church and mosque. Its early-Christian mosaics are among the oldest in the world and UNESCO-listed.
Ano Poli (Upper Town)
A hilltop quarter spared by the 1917 fire, with timber Ottoman houses, the Byzantine church of Osios David and ramparts that take in the whole bay.
Ladadika
A former oil-merchant district near the port, with restored colourful façades. Its pedestrian lanes brim with tavernas, ouzeries and bars that come alive at night.

Good to know

Spring and autumn are ideal, mild and bright; summer is hot and humid, winter cooler and windy. The centre is very walkable, and a bus network handles longer trips, now joined by the recently opened metro. Tip: enjoy the café scene, one of the liveliest in Greece, in mid-afternoon. Mobile 4G/5G coverage is dense and reliable across the metropolitan area, and free wifi is common in cafés and hotels.

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