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Tashkent eSIM

Tashkent: blue mosaics and Soviet avenues

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The guide

Tashkent juxtaposes Uzbek old town and Soviet planning. Around the Chorsu Bazaar and the Kukeldash Madrasa survive lanes, ceramic workshops and the Hazrati Imam complex, said to hold one of the world's oldest Qurans. The modern centre unfolds wide avenues, Independence Square (Mustaqillik) and the Navoi Theatre. The metro, one of the most beautiful in the world, is worth visiting station by station. The Mirzo Ulugbek district and shaded parks invite a stroll. For crafts, head to the Abulkasim centre or the silk and ceramic shops. The « chaikhana » (tea houses) serve plov, kebabs and green tea at all hours, in the warm, sociable atmosphere typical of Uzbekistan.

« You Are Not an Orphan » (Ты не сирота, 1962) by Shukhrat Abbasov was shot in Tashkent and shows the city before the 1966 earthquake. Based on the true story of blacksmith Shaakhmed Shamakhmudov, who adopted fifteen children of various nationalities during the Second World War, it is a classic of the Uzbekfilm studio. It preserves old districts that have since vanished.

A powerful earthquake flattened much of Tashkent in April 1966; the city was rebuilt within a few years by workers from across the USSR, hence its wide avenues and its metro. Opened in 1977, that metro was long off-limits to photography as it doubled as a nuclear shelter: its stations are true underground palaces.

Slip into the Chorsu Bazaar, under its turquoise dome, early in the morning to taste « non » (bread) still warm. A data eSIM lets you freely photograph the metro stations (allowed since 2018) while keeping Yandex Go on hand for taxis.

Must-see

Chorsu Bazaar
A large covered market under a turquoise dome at the heart of the old town. It sells spices, dried fruit, tandoor-baked « non » bread, meats and ceramics. One of Central Asia's oldest markets, buzzing from dawn.
Hazrati Imam Complex
A restored religious ensemble (mosques, madrasa, mausoleum) housing the library said to hold the Uthman Quran, a 7th-century manuscript reputed among the oldest in the world. The spiritual heart of the old town.
Tashkent Metro
Central Asia's first metro (1977), famous for stations adorned with marble, mosaics, chandeliers and Uzbek motifs. The Kosmonavtlar station, dedicated to space exploration, is especially spectacular. Photography allowed since 2018.
Independence Square (Mustaqillik)
A vast central esplanade lined with fountains, arches and government buildings, a symbol of post-Soviet Uzbekistan. Host to national ceremonies, it is pleasant to wander in the evening among families and water jets.

Good to know

Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are perfect; summer is scorching (often above 38°C) and winter cold. The clean, safe, cheap metro is the best way to get around; the Yandex Go app provides very affordable taxis. Tip: carry cash in som, as some small shops do not take cards. 4G coverage is good citywide and 5G is rolling out; public wifi is patchy outside hotels and cafés, so a data eSIM secures maps, translation and taxi booking without relying on a hotspot.

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