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🇰🇷 City · South Korea
Seoul: Joseon palaces and electric neon
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A sprawling capital split by the Han River, Seoul layers Joseon-era palaces against walls of glass towers. North of the river, Bukchon lines its tiled-roof hanok houses between the Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces. Hongdae, around the university, gathers youth culture, cafés, street art and nightlife. South of the river, Gangnam flaunts luxury, the designer boutiques of Apgujeong and Garosu-gil, and unabashed modernity. Visitors also wander Insadong for crafts, Myeongdong for cosmetics and street food, and Gwangjang Market for savoury pancakes. Between temples, urban mountains and café-lined alleys, the city reveals itself district by district, best explored on foot and by subway.
In “Parasite” (2019), the Kim family races down Changsin-dong's stepped alleys and the tunnel linking Cheongun-dong to Buam-dong.
The Cheonggyecheon stream, paved over from 1958 and buried under a highway, was reopened to the sky in 2005 right in the city center.
Climb to Ihwa Mural Village clinging to Naksan: 70 artists painted its walls and the view over Seoul is unbeatable.
Spring (April, for the cherry blossoms) and autumn (October, for the maples) are the most pleasant seasons; summer is hot and rainy, winter dry and bitterly cold. Seoul's vast, clean, English-signed subway is the easiest way to get around; the rechargeable T-money card also works on buses and some taxis. A tip: leave time for evening walks, as the city stays very safe late at night. As for connectivity, mobile coverage is among the best in the world, with dense 5G, and free public wifi is available in the subway, in many cafés and across public spaces.