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Prague: the city of a hundred spires

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The guide

Prague is best explored on foot, neighbourhood by neighbourhood. The historic core, Staré Město (the Old Town), revolves around its medieval square and Astronomical Clock, steps from Charles Bridge and the old Jewish quarter of Josefov. Across the Vltava, Malá Strana unfolds its baroque lanes at the foot of the Castle, quieter and more intimate, with the John Lennon Wall and the Wallenstein Garden. To feel like a local, head to Vinohrady, an elegant residential district of cosmopolitan cafés and bistros around Peace Square, or to Žižkov, said to have the most pubs per square kilometre in Europe. With the seasons, the Náplavka riverbank and the hilltop beer gardens round out the wandering.

In “Mission: Impossible” (1996), Tom Cruise races across Charles Bridge as Jim Phelps plunges into the Vltava below.

The Astronomical Clock on Old Town Square has run since 1410, making it the oldest such clock still working in the world.

On Saturday mornings, Naplavka farmers market lines the Vltava embankment; enter from up-river to dodge the crowds.

Must-see

Charles Bridge (Karlův most)
A 14th-century pedestrian bridge lined with baroque statues, linking the Old Town to Malá Strana. Very busy by day, so cross early in the morning to enjoy the views over the Castle and the Vltava in peace.
Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral
A vast complex overlooking the city, one of the largest castle grounds in the world. The Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral, its stained glass and the Golden Lane are the highlights; the changing of the guard punctuates the day.
Letná Beer Garden
On Letná Hill, this large beer garden under chestnut trees offers panoramic views of the bridges, Old Town spires and the river. Mostly open spring through autumn, with a relaxed self-service setup.
Vyšehrad
A hilltop fortress to the south, calmer than the centre, with ramparts, the Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul, and a cemetery where notable Czech figures rest. A fine walk with views over the valley and the Nusle Bridge.

Good to know

Spring and autumn are ideal: mild weather and thinner crowds than peak summer. The centre is fully walkable; for longer distances, the dense tram and metro network is efficient and inexpensive (remember to validate your ticket). One tip: step away from the main tourist streets to find local pubs where a pint costs far less. As for connectivity, Prague has excellent 4G/5G coverage and free wifi is common in cafés, restaurants and hotels; you will get a signal easily across most districts, including along the riverbanks and up on the hills.

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