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Melbourne: laneways of art and cinema

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The guide

Capital of Victoria and spread along the Yarra River, Melbourne lives in its central laneways, covered in street art and lined with tiny cafes: Hosier Lane is the most famous, its murals repainted endlessly. The bohemian inner-north suburb of Fitzroy strings vintage shops, record stores and eclectic dining rooms along Brunswick Street, while Carlton keeps its Italian roots on Lygon Street. To the south, St Kilda faces the bay with its pier and little penguins. The city nurtures a relaxed lifestyle obsessed with specialty coffee, sport (cricket and Aussie footy at the MCG) and covered markets. Between skyscrapers, free city-centre trams and parks, Melbourne is easy to explore on foot and by tram.

History's first feature film, “The Story of the Kelly Gang” (1906), was shot in Melbourne and premiered at the Athenaeum Theatre on 26 December 1906.

Australia's first traffic lights were installed in Melbourne in 1912, at the corner of Collins and Swanston Streets.

Head to AC/DC Lane, named after the band: dense street art and the legendary rock venue Cherry Bar, hidden behind an unmarked door.

Must-see

Hosier Lane
Melbourne's best-known street-art laneway, cobbled and entirely covered in constantly changing graffiti, stencils and installations. A short walk from Federation Square, you never see the same thing twice.
Queen Victoria Market
Historic open-air and undercover market running since the 19th century: fresh produce, cheeses, pastries, borek and bratwurst to snack on. It's also a spot for souvenirs and a summer night market.
Royal Botanic Gardens
Botanic gardens beside the Yarra, home to more than 8,500 plant species. Lawns, a lake and glasshouses make this the city's green lung, perfect for a picnic or a quiet stroll.
Brunswick Street, Fitzroy
Buzzing artery of bohemian Fitzroy, lined with cafes, vintage stores, independent bookshops and bars. It's the heart of the city's alternative and dining scene, easily reached by tram.

Good to know

Melbourne's weather is famously changeable (four seasons in one day): the southern summer (December-February) is hot, while autumn (March-May) is mild and bright. The centre is walkable, and the City Circle Tram plus the whole central Free Tram Zone are free; beyond that, a myki card covers trams, buses and trains. Tip: always pack an extra layer, the weather flips fast. For connectivity, 4G and 5G coverage is excellent across the metro area, and free public wifi is widely available downtown, in libraries and in many cafes.

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