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The guide
Lisbon spreads across seven hills above the Tagus, offering a succession of viewpoints over its ochre rooftops. The Alfama, the oldest quarter, unfolds its steep lanes, staircases and fado songs beneath São Jorge castle. In the centre, the Pombaline Baixa lines up the orderly streets rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake, extended by the terraces of Chiado and the buzzing nightlife of Bairro Alto. To the west, Belém gathers the great monuments of the Age of Discovery along the river. Yellow trams, including the legendary line 28, climb the slopes past façades clad in azulejo tiles. Between historic cafés, miradouros and the gentle light of the estuary, Lisbon charms with its nostalgic, luminous atmosphere.
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The lanes of Alfama: Wim Wenders follows his lost sound engineer through the poem-city in “Lisbon Story” (1994).
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The neo-Gothic wrought-iron Elevador de Santa Justa, built in 1902, was designed by Raul Mesnier de Ponsard, a student of Gustave Eiffel.
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At Antiga Confeitaria de Belém on rua de Belém, eat the warm pastéis made from a Hieronymite monks' recipe, kept secret since the 1800s.
Must-see
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Belém Tower
A 16th-century Manueline fortress standing at the edge of the Tagus and listed by UNESCO. A symbol of Portugal's Age of Discovery, it once guarded the entrance to Lisbon's harbour.
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Jerónimos Monastery
A jewel of Manueline architecture in Belém, also UNESCO-listed, housing the tomb of Vasco da Gama. Its finely carved cloister is among the most beautiful in Portugal.
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São Jorge Castle
A hilltop citadel of Moorish origin crowning the Alfama, offering panoramic views over the city and the Tagus. Its ramparts and gardens recount centuries of Lisbon's history.
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Tram 28
A historic tram line of yellow carriages that winds from Graça to Estrela through the Alfama, Baixa and Chiado. A scenic ride across the city's most iconic neighbourhoods.
Good to know
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Spring and autumn bring a mild, luminous climate, while summer is warm but tempered by the Atlantic breeze. The metro, trams, funiculars and buses serve the city efficiently, but bring good shoes for the slopes and slippery cobblestones. Be sure to try a pastel de nata in Belém. Mobile 4G/5G coverage is excellent across the capital and free wifi is plentiful in cafés, hotels and public places, a real help for following the hilly routes and finding the miradouros without getting lost.