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Las Vegas: neon excess in the desert

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The guide

Las Vegas runs at two speeds. The Strip, a long avenue lined with themed casino-resorts, packs in the shows, the Bellagio fountains and scaled-down versions of Venice, Paris and New York. To the north, the historic downtown around Fremont Street has a more retro feel, set under a vast canopy of LED screens (Viva Vision) with free nightly light shows. Away from the neon, the Arts District (18b), just south of downtown, draws visitors with its galleries, craft breweries and vintage shops. Beyond the city, the Mojave Desert is close at hand: Red Rock Canyon and its red cliffs make an easy half-day, while the Hoover Dam and the Grand Canyon are within reach as day trips. The city is best explored on foot along the Strip, though distances are deceptive.

At the Riviera, Johnny Depp plays a drug-addled reporter in “Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas” (1998) after Circus Circus refused to host filming.

The Strip is not technically in Las Vegas: most of the famous mega-casinos actually sit in Paradise, outside the city limits.

At the Peppermill Fireside Lounge (1972), sip a cocktail beside the fire pit seen in Scorsese's “Casino”.

Must-see

Fountains of Bellagio
In front of the Bellagio hotel, choreographed water jets shoot high into the air to music every fifteen to thirty minutes in the evening. The show is free and remains one of the Strip's most iconic sights.
Fremont Street Experience
A pedestrian street in old Las Vegas covered by a huge LED screen (Viva Vision) spanning five blocks. Free nightly light shows, zip lines, historic casinos and street performers create an atmosphere quite unlike the Strip.
The Neon Museum
At the east end of Fremont Street, this open-air museum preserves the neon signs of former hotels and casinos in a Boneyard of more than two acres. Guided tours, especially striking at night, tell the city's story.
Red Rock Canyon
About twenty minutes west, this conservation area offers red sandstone cliffs, a scenic loop drive and numerous hiking trails. A striking natural contrast to the buzz of the casinos.

Good to know

The desert climate makes summers scorching (often above 40 °C / 104 °F in July and August); spring and autumn are far more pleasant for walking. The Strip is walkable, but the monorail, the Deuce buses and ride-hailing help avoid long stretches in the heat. Tip: always carry water, as the dry air dehydrates quickly. As for connectivity, mobile 4G/5G coverage is excellent throughout the Strip and downtown, and nearly all hotels, casinos and restaurants offer free wifi, though speeds can dip at peak times.

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