Izmir, Turkey's third city, spreads its bay along the Aegean with a thoroughly Mediterranean ease. The heart beats in Konak, with its 1901 clock tower and a square open to the waterfront. From there runs the Kordon, a long café-lined promenade where locals gather at sunset. The maze of the Kemeraltı bazaar, a market alive since Ottoman times, teems with hidden courtyards (the han), spices and workshops. The Alsancak district holds the nightlife and good addresses, while Karataş and its Asansör offer height and perspective. Higher up, the fortress of Kadifekale dominates the city. Izmir is lived outdoors, among sea, terraces and markets.
🎬« Babam ve Oğlum » (My Father and My Son, 2005), one of Turkey's best-loved films, shot its countryside scenes in Seferihisar, in the Izmir region. Director Çağan Irmak captures the gentleness of Aegean village life in contrast with the turmoil of Istanbul.
✨Izmir, ancient Smyrna, was for centuries a cosmopolitan city where Greeks, Turks, Jews, Armenians and Levantines lived side by side. The great fire of 1922 destroyed much of the city, marking the tragic end of this millennia-old cultural mosaic.
🧭Leave the Kordon for the Karataş district and take the Asansör, the historic 1907 elevator that rises to a panoramic terrace over the gulf, free and far less busy than Kadifekale. With a data eSIM, scout out the best pide and boyoz spots nearby in advance.
ℹ️Izmir enjoys a Mediterranean climate: spring and autumn are ideal, summer is hot but tempered by sea breezes, and winter stays mild. The centre is walkable along the Kordon, backed by a metro, trams and ferries crossing the bay, a pleasant way to reach Karşıyaka. Tip: the İzmirimkart transport card works across all modes. 4G/5G coverage is excellent in the city and free wifi is plentiful in the cafés of the Kordon and Alsancak.
