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Granada

Granada: the last Moorish capital and its free tapas

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The guide

Granada unfolds at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, crowned by the Alhambra, the Nasrid palace-fortress that is among Spain's most visited monuments. Below it, the Albaicín, the old Moorish quarter listed by UNESCO, winds through cobbled lanes, carmenes (garden houses) and tapas squares. Higher up, the Sacromonte lines up its cave houses dug into the hillside, lived in for centuries by the Roma community and the cradle of a raw flamenco, the zambra. The centre, around the cathedral and the Royal Chapel where the Catholic Monarchs lie, mixes shops, markets and bars. By night, the free-tapas crawl is an institution: hop from bar to bar, a drink and a plate at each stop. The contrast between Muslim heritage and Christian reconquest gives Granada a singular soul.

The hit Korean series Memories of the Alhambra (2018), starring Hyun Bin and Park Shin-hye, was filmed in the streets of Granada and around the Alhambra, which serves as the central backdrop to its plot blending augmented reality and fantasy. The Nasrid palace and the Generalife gardens become a life-sized video-game arena.

Granada keeps alive one of Spain's last free-tapas traditions: order a beer or a glass of wine and a small plate arrives automatically, at no extra cost. Calle Navas, near the town hall, is the epicentre, with a density of bars that rivals anywhere in the country.

For the most famous view, climb to the Mirador de San Nicolás in the Albaicín, but arrive early to beat the crowds; the quieter mirador de la Vereda de Enmedio in Sacromonte offers a calmer alternative over the Alhambra. Keep yourself located in the maze of lanes with a data eSIM: without signal it's easy to get lost in the Albaicín.

Must-see

Alhambra and Generalife

A 13th-century Nasrid palace-city, the pinnacle of Islamic art in Europe: halls of carved stucco, the Court of the Lions and the Generalife gardens. Book tickets well in advance, as demand is huge.

Albaicín

The old Moorish quarter listed by UNESCO, made of white lanes, patios and viewpoints. The San Nicolás lookout offers the postcard view of the Alhambra with the snow-capped Sierra Nevada behind.

Sacromonte

The district of cave houses dug into the hill above the Albaicín, inhabited for 600 years by the Roma community. Its cuevas host zambra shows, a flamenco that is rawer and more intimate than elsewhere.

Calle Navas

A pedestrian street near the town hall, regarded as the epicentre of Granada's free tapas. The density of quality bars is exceptional: order a drink, get a plate, and move from bar to bar.

Good to know

Spring and autumn are ideal; the Andalusian summer is scorching, and winter even lets you ski in the Sierra Nevada less than an hour away. The centre is walkable, but the Albaicín and Sacromonte are steep: small red minibuses (the C lines) climb the lanes too narrow for cars. Tip: book your Alhambra tickets weeks ahead, as they sell out fast. 4G/5G coverage is good across the city, though the deep lanes of the Albaicín can weaken; a data eSIM keeps navigation running in this maze and lets you buy tickets online on the spot.

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