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The guide
Dublin is best explored on foot, split by the River Liffey into north and south banks. To the south, the lively Temple Bar district packs in pubs, live music and galleries, while Trinity College and its famous Book of Kells sit near the shopping streets of Grafton Street. The Georgian quarter, around Merrion Square and St Stephen's Green, charms with its brick facades and colourful doors. To the north, O'Connell Street, the grand thoroughfare, leads to the history-laden General Post Office. The modern Docklands house tech headquarters and contemporary architecture. Between pints, you can soak up Irish conviviality in the pubs, stroll along the canals and tour the whiskey distilleries that built the city's reputation.
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In 1983, “Educating Rita” with Michael Caine used Trinity College as its university, down to the student-society rooms.
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On 31 December 1759, Arthur Guinness signed a 9,000-year lease at St James's Gate for 45 pounds a year, still on show under glass at the Storehouse.
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On South Great George's Street, the Long Hall keeps its 1881 Victorian interior intact: a timeless pint far from Temple Bar.
Must-see
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Trinity College and the Book of Kells
Ireland's oldest university is home to the Book of Kells, a 9th-century illuminated manuscript, and the majestic Long Room of the Old Library, a vaulted hall lined with thousands of ancient volumes.
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Guinness Storehouse
Set in the former St James's Gate brewery, this immersive museum traces the story of the Irish stout across seven floors. The visit ends at the panoramic Gravity Bar, with a complimentary pint and a 360-degree view.
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Dublin Castle
For centuries the seat of British rule in Ireland, this complex blends medieval and Georgian architecture. You can tour the State Apartments and the chapel, right in the heart of the old city.
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Kilmainham Gaol
This former prison, now a museum, is a landmark of Irish history: leaders of the 1916 Rising were held and executed here. The moving guided tour sheds light on the road to independence.
Good to know
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Dublin's climate is mild but changeable: pack a waterproof jacket in any season. Summer (June-August) brings the longest days and the warmest temperatures, but spring and autumn are pleasant and less touristy. The centre is walkable; the Luas tram and buses fill in longer trips, and the Leap card makes transport easy. Tip: book the Book of Kells and the Guinness Storehouse online to skip the wait. As for connectivity, 4G/5G covers Dublin well, and free wifi is nearly universal in pubs, cafes, hotels and on transport, very handy day to day.