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Dresden

Dresden: the Florence of the Elbe, baroque resurrected

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The guide

Dresden unfolds on both sides of the Elbe. The old town (Altstadt) concentrates the baroque jewels: the Zwinger and its museums, the Semperoper opera house, the Residenzschloss palace and the rebuilt Frauenkirche, whose dome dominates the skyline. The famous Meissen-porcelain mural, the Procession of Princes (Fürstenzug), lines a street in the centre. Across the river, the Neustadt shows a younger, bohemian face: the Kunsthofpassage and its artistic courtyards, the bars of the Äußere Neustadt, cafés and galleries. The Elbe banks, with the Brühl Terrace nicknamed the Balcony of Europe, invite a stroll. Also not to be missed: the Pfunds Molkerei, with its spectacular tiles, and a trip to nearby Saxon Switzerland.

Wes Anderson's The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014) made Dresden a prime backdrop: the baroque Zwinger palace serves as the Kunstmuseum where the character Kovacs is tailed by Jopling. The interiors of Mendl's bakery were filmed at Pfunds Molkerei, a historic dairy on Bautzner Straße.

The famous Pfunds Molkerei, listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the most beautiful dairy in the world, is entirely covered in hand-painted neo-Renaissance ceramic tiles. As for the Frauenkirche, reduced to rubble in 1945, it was only rebuilt true to the original in 2005, reusing thousands of blackened original stones.

Slip into the Kunsthofpassage in the Neustadt district, a series of decorated courtyards including the famous façade that plays music in the rain. Find the discreet entrance via a data eSIM, as it's easy to miss.

Must-see

Zwinger
Dresden's iconic baroque palace, home to museums and galleries including the Old Masters. Its courtyard, pavilions and fountain make it one of Germany's finest baroque ensembles, seen in The Grand Budapest Hotel.
Frauenkirche
Baroque church with a monumental dome, destroyed in 1945 and faithfully rebuilt in 2005 using original stones. A symbol of reconciliation, it dominates the Neumarkt square at the heart of the old town.
Pfunds Molkerei
Historic dairy on Bautzner Straße, entirely tiled in painted neo-Renaissance ceramics and ranked the most beautiful dairy in the world. Its interiors stood in for Mendl's bakery in Wes Anderson's film.
Kunsthofpassage
A run of decorated courtyards in the Neustadt, created by local artists. The most famous, the Courtyard of Elements, sports a blue façade whose drainpipes play a watery melody when it rains.

Good to know

From May to September the city enjoys long evenings on the Elbe banks and Neustadt terraces; in December, the Striezelmarkt, one of Germany's oldest Christmas markets, is worth the trip. Trams and buses serve the centre well, and the station easily connects to Berlin and Prague. Tip: plan an excursion to Saxon Switzerland and its famous Bastei bridge. Mobile 4G/5G coverage is solid in town and free wifi common in cafés; a data eSIM lets you book museums and regional trains with ease.

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