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The guide
India's capital feels like two cities in one. Old Delhi, founded by the Mughals, unspools its lanes around the Red Fort and the heaving Chandni Chowk market, a kingdom of street food and temples. New Delhi, laid out by the British, instead spreads wide avenues, gardens and the circular district of Connaught Place, its commercial and financial core. To the south, Hauz Khas Village blends medieval ruins, art galleries, boutiques and bars around a lake, while Lodhi Colony hosts an open-air street-art district. Also worth seeing: Humayun's Tomb, the Qutub Minar, Lodi Gardens and the Lotus Temple. Allow two to three days to cover the city's main highlights.
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At the gardens of Humayun's Tomb, Aamir Khan plays a tour guide in “Fanaa” (2006), opposite Kajol.
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Chandni Chowk, “moonlight square”, was laid out in 1650 by Jahanara, Shah Jahan's daughter; a central canal once mirrored the moon.
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Dive into Paranthe Wali Gali, a Chandni Chowk lane frying ghee-cooked stuffed parathas since the 1870s.
Must-see
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Red Fort (Lal Qila)
A red-sandstone fortress built by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1648, once the seat of Mughal power and a symbol of India's independence. In the evening, a sound-and-light show retraces its history at the foot of its massive walls.
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Humayun's Tomb
Built in the mid-16th century by Emperor Humayun's widow, it is India's first garden mausoleum, in white marble and red sandstone. Inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993, it is said to have inspired the Taj Mahal.
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Qutub Minar
Raised in the early 13th century, this brick minaret is the tallest in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It stands at the heart of an archaeological complex rich in ruins and ancient inscriptions.
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Chandni Chowk
Laid out in the 17th century by Shah Jahan, it is one of India's oldest and busiest markets. Its lanes overflow with spices, jewellery and street-food stalls, right beside the great Jama Masjid mosque.
Good to know
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The best time to visit Delhi runs from October to March, when temperatures are bearable; summer is scorching and the monsoon brings humidity from July to September. To get around, the Delhi Metro is modern, air-conditioned and very efficient for linking the major sights, with auto-rickshaws filling in for short hops. One tip: keep shoulders and legs covered for temples and mosques, and stay alert in dense traffic. On connectivity, 4G/5G mobile coverage is very widespread across the capital and speeds are generally good; wifi is common in hotels, cafés and malls, a little more patchy in the Old Delhi markets.