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Cologne

Cologne: the cathedral, Kölsch and the spirit of Carnival

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The guide

Cologne is organised around its Gothic cathedral, a landmark visible from afar and an ideal starting point. The old town (Altstadt) runs along the Rhine with its traditional Kölsch breweries, where the Köbes refills your glass until you place a coaster on top. For a more creative vibe, head to the Belgisches Viertel, the trendiest district with designer shops, cafés and the summer buzz of Brüsseler Platz. Ehrenfeld, grittier and more alternative, concentrates street art (notably on Heliosstraße), warehouse clubs and coffee roasters. A walk along the Rhine banks, ideally at sunset, or a climb up the cathedral tower (533 steps) rounds off the visit. The ultimate party city, Cologne truly comes alive during its legendary Carnival.

The Beggar from Cologne Cathedral (Der Bettler vom Kölner Dom, 1927), a silent film by Rolf Randolf, is set during Carnival around the cathedral square, where an inspector hunts jewel thieves disguised as beggars. The shoot blended real location footage in the city with studio scenes.

Building Cologne Cathedral took more than 600 years: begun in 1248, it was only completed in 1880. Kölsch, the local beer, has a protected designation: it can only be brewed in the region and is served exclusively in small straight 0.2-litre glasses called Stangen.

Head to Brüsseler Platz, the lively square of the Belgisches Viertel, where locals gather in the evening, drink in hand, in front of St Michael's Church. Scout the independent cafés nearby via a data eSIM instead of wandering in circles.

Must-see

Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom)

UNESCO-listed Gothic masterpiece, begun in 1248 and completed in 1880. Its twin spires dominate the city; you can climb the south tower's 533 steps for a panoramic view over the Rhine.

Belgisches Viertel

Cologne's most creative quarter, with handsome late-19th-century façades. Independent shops, cafés and Brüsseler Platz, which turns into a lively gathering spot on summer evenings.

Ehrenfeld

A former working-class district turned Cologne's alternative, artistic hub. Giant murals on Heliosstraße, warehouse clubs, galleries and roasters like Van Dyck create a vibe often compared to Berlin.

Rhine bank (Rheinufer)

A long promenade at the foot of the old town, ideal for a sunset stroll. It leads to the Hohenzollern Bridge, covered in love padlocks, with the cathedral as a backdrop.

Good to know

Spring and summer are perfect for enjoying terraces and the Rhine banks, but the wildest time is Carnival (February or March), when the city dresses up and celebrates. The tram and urban rail network serves the centre and the airport efficiently. Tip: signal the end of your Kölsch round by placing a coaster on your glass, or the Köbes will keep serving. Mobile 4G/5G coverage is excellent in town and free wifi is widespread in cafés; a data eSIM makes navigation and bookings easy.

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