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Brno eSIM

Brno: Moravia's modernist capital

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The guide

The Czech Republic's second city and Moravia's student capital, Brno has a quiet elegance far from Prague's crowds. Life centres on Freedom Square (náměstí Svobody) and the Cabbage Market (Zelný trh), with its baroque fountain and a maze of medieval cellars beneath. Climb Špilberk Castle for the view, then descend into the ossuary under St James's Church, the second largest in Europe after Paris, holding over 50,000 bodies. The cathedral district of Saints Peter and Paul, perched on Petrov hill, offers the classic skyline. By night, the scene of hidden bars and student cafés gives Brno its singular, creative and affordable energy.

Villa Tugendhat, Mies van der Rohe's masterpiece, was the set for « The Glass Room » (Skleněný pokoj, 2019) by Julius Ševčík, adapted from Simon Mawer's novel. The crew shot for several days inside the real villa, including its iconic glass living room with onyx walls.

It was in this very Villa Tugendhat that, on 26 August 1992, Václav Klaus and Vladimír Mečiar signed the agreement dissolving Czechoslovakia into two separate states. A private home thus became the stage for the end of a country.

For an unforgettable drink, slip into Super Panda Circus (Pellicova street): there is no menu, you pull a red string and a surprise cocktail descends from the ceiling. Book online ahead and keep your eSIM data on, as the place is tiny and in huge demand.

Must-see

Villa Tugendhat

Functionalist icon by Mies van der Rohe (1929-1930), UNESCO-listed. Booking is required weeks ahead to tour its interiors and the famous glass room with retractable floor-to-ceiling windows.

Špilberk Castle

Fortress crowning the city, once a feared Habsburg prison. Casemates, a lookout tower and a 112-metre medieval well, among the deepest in the country. The walk up takes about ten minutes.

St James Ossuary

Rediscovered in 2001 beneath the market square, Europe's second-largest ossuary. Over 50,000 skeletons arranged in a striking, silent display just metres below the cobblestones.

Zelný trh (Cabbage Market)

A working market square since the Middle Ages, crowned by the baroque Parnas fountain. Beneath the paving runs a network of cellars once used as refrigerators, now open to visitors.

Good to know

Brno is best from May to September, when terraces overflow; spring and autumn stay pleasant and quieter. The historic centre is fully walkable, and a dense tram network covers the rest. Tip: the main station has been under renovation for years, so check connections. Mobile 4G/5G coverage is excellent across the city and free wifi is common in cafés, but an eSIM data plan saves you from relying on public networks to book tours and restaurants on the fly.

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