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The guide
Bangkok reveals itself neighbourhood by neighbourhood. On Rattanakosin Island, the historic core lines up the Grand Palace, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and Wat Pho, home to the giant 46-metre Reclining Buddha. Across the Chao Phraya River, Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, glows best at sunset. For atmosphere, Khao San Road remains the backpacker haunt of cheap street food and nightlife, while Sukhumvit, hip and international, packs in cocktail bars, rooftops and restaurants. For stylish locals and digital nomads, the Ari district leans into specialty coffee and designer shops. On weekends, Chatuchak market and its 15,000 stalls are a world unto themselves.
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The Sirocco rooftop at Lebua at State Tower hosts the wild finale of “The Hangover Part II” (2011).
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Bangkok's 168-letter ceremonial name holds the Guinness World Record for the longest city name on Earth.
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At Or Tor Kor market, try Southern curries and herby Northern sausage, far from the tourist traps.
Must-see
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Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew
Former royal palace on Rattanakosin, a dazzling ensemble of gilded roofs and murals. It enshrines the Emerald Buddha, the country's most revered image. Shoulders and knees must be covered; arrive early to beat the crowds and heat.
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Wat Pho
One of Bangkok's oldest temples, famed for its 46-metre gilded Reclining Buddha inlaid with mother-of-pearl. As the birthplace of traditional Thai massage, you can take a treatment or a course at its renowned on-site school.
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Wat Arun
The Temple of Dawn, on the west bank of the Chao Phraya, raises a 70-metre prang encrusted with porcelain. Climbing it rewards you with river views; it is loveliest at dusk, when it lights up against the setting sun.
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Chatuchak Market
The world's largest weekend market, with over 15,000 stalls of vintage clothing, ceramics, plants, crafts and antiques. Sprawling and dizzying, it is a joy to get lost in; come early before the midday heat builds.
Good to know
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The dry season, November to February, is the most pleasant; March to May is scorching and the monsoon falls from June to October. To get around, the air-conditioned BTS Skytrain and MRT metro dodge the legendary traffic, while Chao Phraya express boats reach the riverside temples. One tip: pair the Grand Palace and Wat Pho in the morning, then ferry across to Wat Arun. As for connectivity, Bangkok has excellent 4G and 5G coverage, wifi is nearly everywhere in cafes, malls and hotels, and speeds are generally fast and reliable.