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The guide
Athens blends ancient ruins with contemporary energy. Everything radiates from the Acropolis, which crowns the city from its rocky outcrop. At its foot lies Plaka, the oldest neighbourhood, with flower-filled lanes and tavernas, flowing into Anafiotika and its little whitewashed houses worthy of the Cyclades. Monastiraki buzzes around its flea market and terraces facing the Parthenon. For a younger, alternative Athens, head to Psiri, Gazi or Exarchia, rich in street art, bars and music venues. The upmarket district of Kolonaki gathers smart shops and cafes at the foot of Lycabettus Hill. Between ancient sites, cafe culture and Greek cuisine set the rhythm of the day, under near-constant sunshine.
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In 2023, “My Big Fat Greek Wedding 3” shot its strolling scenes in the alleys of the Plaka quarter, below the Acropolis.
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On 26 September 1687, a Venetian shell hit the Ottoman powder store in the Parthenon; the blast tore off the roof and some twenty columns.
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Below the Acropolis, Anafiotika hides a whitewashed Cycladic village built in the 1800s by masons from the island of Anafi.
Must-see
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Acropolis and Parthenon
Greece's most iconic ancient site, crowned by the Parthenon dedicated to Athena and built in the 5th century BC. The climb is on foot; come early in the morning or late in the day to avoid the crowds and heat.
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Acropolis Museum
A modern museum at the foot of the rock, housing the sculptures, friezes and caryatids found on the site. Its glass-walled top floor faces the Parthenon and lets you picture the original arrangement of the friezes.
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Plaka
The city's oldest inhabited quarter, with pedestrian cobbled lanes, bougainvillea and traditional tavernas. From here you can climb to Anafiotika, a hamlet of whitewashed Cycladic houses clinging to the slope of the Acropolis.
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Syntagma Square and Parliament
The official heart of Athens, the square faces Parliament, where the Evzones stand guard. The changing of the guard, in traditional dress, takes place every hour, with a more solemn ceremony on Sunday mornings.
Good to know
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Spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October) are ideal: bearable heat and quieter sites. Summer is scorching, often above 35 degrees. The Athens metro is modern, efficient and cheap, linking the airport to the centre; otherwise the historic core is easily covered on foot. Tip: buy a combined ticket for the Acropolis and the nearby ancient sites, which is better value. As for connectivity, 4G/5G covers Athens well, including most metro lines, and free wifi is widespread in cafes and hotels, handy for finding your way through the maze of Plaka.