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Nebraska

Nebraska: wide open spaces and offbeat art

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The guide

Nebraska stretches across long plains and grassy hills in the heart of the American Great Plains, crossed west to east by the Platte River. It was one of the great corridors of the Oregon Trail, where pioneers scanned the horizon for the slender spire of Chimney Rock. To the west, the cliffs of Scotts Bluff and the vast Sandhills, the largest grass-stabilized dunes in North America, create landscapes of striking scale. Omaha, the big eastern city, is home to one of the nation's finest zoos and a lively historic district. In spring, a rare natural spectacle unfolds on the Platte: hundreds of thousands of sandhill cranes gather there during migration. Between pioneer history, quirky art like Carhenge and immense nature, Nebraska surprises those who venture beyond the interstates.

Alexander Payne's black-and-white road movie Nebraska (2013) winds through real small towns across the state on its way to Lincoln.

In Alliance, Carhenge recreates Stonehenge with 38 gray-painted American cars; the town first wanted it torn down and now proudly claims it.

Along the Oregon Trail, stop at Chimney Rock: it is the landmark most cited in pioneer diaries and is etched on the state quarter.

Must-see

Chimney Rock National Historic Site
This rocky spire in the southwest was among the most-mentioned landmarks in Oregon Trail emigrants' journals. Visible for miles, it now features an interpretive visitor center recounting the pioneer migration story.
Scotts Bluff National Monument
An imposing rock formation that once guided indigenous peoples and later Oregon Trail wagon trains. It offers hiking trails, badlands and prairie panoramas, and a museum detailing its importance to 19th-century pioneers.
Henry Doorly Zoo and Aquarium (Omaha)
One of the world's best zoos, with more than 17,000 animals. Highlights include the Desert Dome, the world's largest indoor desert, the Lied Jungle indoor rainforest, and a shark tunnel over 20 meters long.
Carhenge (Alliance)
A quirky replica of Stonehenge built from 39 vintage cars painted gray, set upright and buried in a circle. Created in 1987 by artist Jim Reinders, it is one of the most eccentric monuments on the Great Plains.

Good to know

Nebraska has hot summers and cold, windy winters. Spring, especially March and early April, is the highlight for watching the sandhill crane migration on the Platte near Grand Island, served by dedicated viewing centers. Summer and early fall suit the western sites and hiking. A car is essential given the state's size and the long distances between attractions; refuel regularly in rural areas. Pack a windbreaker even in the warm season. As for connectivity, mobile network coverage is reliable in Omaha, Lincoln and along Interstate 80, but becomes patchy across the sparsely populated Sandhills and Panhandle.

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