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Texas

Texas: the former republic turned giant

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The guide

The largest of the contiguous US states, Texas thrives on big scale and a fierce identity. You move from the skylines of Houston and Dallas to the green hills of the Hill Country, from the arid plains of the west to the beaches of the Gulf of Mexico. Austin, the laid-back capital, calls itself the live music capital of the world; San Antonio blends Hispanic heritage, the Alamo and its famous River Walk. Out west sprawls Big Bend, a vast wilderness along the Rio Grande and the Mexican border. Between ranches, smoky barbecue, historic dancehalls, vineyards and Gulf-coast oyster bars, Texas is best savoured slowly. Distances are colossal: crossing from east to west takes more than a day of driving, yet every region has its own mood, from cowboy to surfer.

Marfa, in the Trans-Pecos, was the main backdrop of the Coen brothers' Oscar-winning “No Country for Old Men” (2007).

Texas was a sovereign, internationally recognized republic from 1836 to 1845, the only US state to have been an independent nation before joining the Union.

Head to Marfa for the mysterious “Marfa Lights” off Route 90 and its desert art galleries deep in West Texas.

Must-see

Big Bend National Park
Along the Rio Grande, this vast border park blends Chihuahuan Desert, the Chisos Mountains and river-carved canyons. More than 240 km of trails, 450 bird species and one of the country's darkest, most star-filled skies for night-sky watching.
San Antonio River Walk
The most-visited attraction in Texas: a network of walkways below street level along the river, lined with cafes, restaurants and hotels. Just steps away, the Alamo recalls the turbulent history of Texan independence.
Austin
A young, creative capital nicknamed the live music capital of the world. Sixth Street is packed with bars and music venues, you can swim in the Barton Springs pool, and the South by Southwest festival animates the city each spring.
Texas Hill Country
A region of rolling hills between Austin and San Antonio shaped by German settlers. It offers rivers, historic dancehalls, vineyards, distilleries and, in spring, whole fields of bluebonnets, the state's emblematic wildflower.

Good to know

Spring, with its wildflowers, and autumn are the most pleasant seasons; summers are long, humid and very hot. Because Texas is enormous, a car is essential, and domestic flights between Houston, Dallas, Austin and San Antonio save real time over long distances. Tip: book early for Big Bend, which is remote and short on lodging. As for coverage, the metro areas and major highways are well served, but the mobile signal grows rare or absent in Big Bend, across the vast stretches of West Texas and on some country roads; carry offline maps and a full tank before venturing far.

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