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The guide
Kansas is far more than endless wheat fields: it is the beating heart of the American Great Plains. In the Flint Hills, one of the continent's last tallgrass prairies ripples in the wind, roamed by free bison and set ablaze by vast sunsets. To the west, chalk formations rise from the ground like natural cathedrals, relics of a vanished inland sea. Dodge City and its Boot Hill bring the legend of the Wild West back to life, all cowboys and gunfighters. Wichita, the largest city, blends museums, a riverfront and the towering Keeper of the Plains sculpture. Wide, luminous and sincere, Kansas reveals itself on long straight roads, in the silence of the open spaces.
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“Picnic” (1955), starring William Holden, was shot on location in Hutchinson, Halstead and Nickerson, deep in small-town Kansas.
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The geographic center of the contiguous 48 states sits near Lebanon; the true point fell in a hog pen, so the monument was moved to a nearby hilltop.
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Out west, Monument Rocks (70-foot chalk pyramids) were Kansas's first National Natural Landmark; access is free and open year-round.
Must-see
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Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve
In the Flint Hills, this preserve protects nearly 11,000 acres of tallgrass prairie, one of the last remnants of this landscape in North America. A free-roaming bison herd lives here, amid trails and seemingly endless horizons.
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Monument Rocks
Nicknamed the Chalk Pyramids, these chalk spires in western Kansas rise more than 70 feet. Shaped by a long-gone inland sea and rich in fossils, they make a striking sight, especially at sunrise and sunset.
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Boot Hill Museum, Dodge City
On the site of the famous Boot Hill cemetery, this museum recreates an 1870s main street. Staged gunfights, a saloon and exhibits immerse visitors in the golden age of cowboys and the conquest of the West.
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Keeper of the Plains, Wichita
At the confluence of the two branches of the Arkansas River, this imposing steel statue, nearly 44 feet tall, honors Native American peoples. In the evening, fire pots are lit around it for a spectacular ring-of-fire ritual.
Good to know
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Spring and fall offer the most pleasant conditions, with green or golden prairies and mild temperatures. Summer is hot, winter is cold and windy, and spring storms can be severe: Kansas sees tornadoes, so watch the forecast. A car is essential: distances are enormous and sites are often isolated on gravel roads, so fill up before long drives. U.S. carrier coverage is reliable in towns and along the interstates, but can vanish across the remote western plains, around Monument Rocks and on the back roads of the Flint Hills.