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Gabon: surfing hippos and an ocean of rainforest

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Loango's 'surfing hippos', shot by Michael Nichols for National Geographic at the end of Mike Fay's epic trek, made TIME's list of the 100 most influential photos ever — and helped persuade President Omar Bongo to protect the country.

On 30 August 2002, Gabon created 13 national parks in one stroke — nearly 11% of its land, in a country almost 90% covered by equatorial rainforest.

Watch forest elephants and buffalo stroll Loango's beaches; the Trans-Gabon Railway runs to UNESCO-listed Lopé; in Lambaréné, tour Albert Schweitzer's hospital-museum (1952 Nobel Peace Prize). An eSIM helps: WhatsApp boat and 4x4 pickups with lodges, check train times and keep GPS running deep upcountry.

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