Autonomous, demilitarised and Swedish-speaking within Finland, the Åland archipelago is unique in Europe — with its own flag, plates and stamps prized by collectors.
The Pommern, a four-masted barque moored in Mariehamn, is one of the world's last great merchant sailing ships preserved in original condition.
The archipelago is best explored by bike, ferry to ferry. An eSIM helps: ferry times from Helsinki, Turku or Stockholm, inter-island links and Baltic weather before kayaking.