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Serbia: sleepless Belgrade, where two rivers meet

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Emir Kusturica's “Underground” (1995), Palme d'Or winner at Cannes, remains one of European cinema's wildest films.

Belgrade fortress watches over the meeting of the Sava and the Danube — and every summer the EXIT festival takes over Novi Sad's.

Kafanas (taverns) come alive late at night. An eSIM helps: the CarGo app for Belgrade rides, EXIT's line-up online and reviews of the splavovi, the floating clubs.

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