Danis Tanović's “No Man's Land” (2001) won the Oscar for best foreign film — a Bosnian gaze turned universal.
For centuries, Mostar's young men have dived the 24 metres off the Stari Most — destroyed in 1993, the bridge was rebuilt stone by stone in 2004.
Bosnian coffee is sipped without haste, in the Baščaršija quarter. An eSIM helps: Sarajevo's cable car online, train times to Mostar and reviews of the ćevabdžinicas.